Italy

2005

ACCRA/MILANO/ROME

We arrived at Linate Airport at 6:10am. The weather was fine but a bit cold for someone who was coming from a warm place.

At 6:40am we were on our way to Milano. It is just a thirty-minute journey by train and it stops near the Castello Sforzesco, which isn’t far from the Duomo.

The way other to get to Town is by bus, which is much cheaper and it goes to the central station where is very easy to catch a metro to the Duomo.

We had our breakfast at the train Station and after that we went on foot by via Torino to the Duomo.

We got to the square very early. It was quiet and empty. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II which has a shape of a Latin cross was desert, which gave us the chance to walk through it and have a nice view of its shops and its remarkable marble inlaid pavement with mosaics of signs of the zodiac.

After having passed by the Galleria is time to go to Via Monte Napoleone, where all the smartest shops are. The street is very nice for a walk and of course there are beautiful shop-windows full with priceless goods.

While I went to another Galleria Hans went up the Cathedral for a nice view of city.

At 1:00pm we left for the airport. We had a flight to Rome at 3:40pm.

In our flight to Rome we had the AC-Milan with us and amongst them there were two Brazilians (Cafu and Caca). I had a small chat with them.

We arrived in Rome at the Leonardo da Vinci airport at 5:20pm. We immediately caught a train to Termini Station and from the Station we caught a bus to our bed-and-breakfast near the Piazza Buenos Aires (a very good area with a nice Park nearby and easy to get around by public transport).

We took a shower and went out just to eat something before going to bed.

ROMA

Metro, Bus, Tram

The subway metro system has just two lines A and B, which intersect at Termini. The public transport service starts at 5:30am and ends at mid-night.

It’s very easy to catch a metro but isn’t easy to go to all the places. In my opinion the best way to go round in Rome is on foot.

The tickets both for metro, tram and bus are sold at the newsstands and so called Tabacchi. Don’t forget to valid your ticket at the validation boxes inside the bus, tram or metro as soon as soon you enter. The offender will be fined if the Official Inspectors catch him. The fine is between 50 and 100 euros. We had one experience and although we had the tickets (not validated) it took us 15 minutes of negotiation. At the end we didn’t pay, we got a warning instead. The daily ticket (4 euro) might be more interesting economically.

Where to Stay

Finding a place to stay in Rome is not difficult. Choosing the area is something which depends on exactly where one wants to go and see. We stayed at Villa Borghese, which is a very interesting and quiet area and we could easily go anywhere without problems. In my opinion a place either at the Trastevere, near the Pantheon or near the Piazza Barberini is perfect.

Where to Eat

Finding a nice restaurant in Italy is very easy, especially at the Trastevere where the prices are reasonable and the food is great. For Ice-creams go to a place at Via del Seminario, they have the most delicious ice-cream in Rome. The place is always packed.

In Italy, there are different prices for standing or sitting in a bar, cafeteria or restaurants, which in some cases it is double the price. Therefore, just to avoid any disappointment check the price-list before entering.

Sunday 20^th March

Piazza de Porta Portese

Our visit started at the Market at the Piazza de Porta Portese. The market is good for souvenirs and leather.

From the market we walked to the Piramide de Cestio which was built inspired by Cleopatra scandals in 12 BC. The building is a very interesting building but the traffic around it is quite intense and doesn’t give a good chance to appreciate the magnificence of its beauty and architecture.

Basilica de San Paolo Fuori le Mura

In my opinion the best introduction to Rome’s arts and architecture is the Basilica de San Paolo Fuori le Mura , which is believed to house the tomb of Saint Paul. This is the second largest Basilica in Rome and the building was started under the reign of Constantine and completed in 395 AD. There are many works of art including Byzantine-Venetian mosaics in the apse, Gothic Ciborium in the Chapel of Holy Sacrament, Portraits of the Popes, exquisite spiral-shaped columns in the cloister and an extremely beautiful facade.

I must confess that I was very excited about visiting this Church. The reason for my excitement was just because I had been studying about it while I was at university and I had a clear picture of it in my mind. When we arrived there the Mass had just finished and as I said before there were very few tourists which gave us the opportunity to see the whole church without being disturbed.

Colosseo Romano

In order to reach the Colosseo quickly we caught a metro near the Basilica de San Paolo. The metro service in Rome isn’t as bad as I had thought. It is cheap and runs very well, but it is better to avoid stopping or catching a train at the Termini Station. This place is always packed.

The Colosseo must be the best introduction to Rome for some people and a great disappointment for others. It is indeed a fantastic building and historically very important. The building was commissioned by Emperor Vespasian in AD 72 in order to entertain people with games and battles.

The huge circus is still very well kept and its architecture is very interesting especially by the way how it is built and the tiers of the Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns are indeed impressive. They inspired many Renaissance architects.

The Colosseo was crowded with tourists and the intense traffic around it is even worse. At the first minute I thought that I was entering a new world where all my dreams were becoming true. Since I was a child I have been hearing and reading about this huge construction and suddenly I was in front of it. To make myself believe that I was at the Colosseo I started walking around it and touching its wall, which were cold and hard. After having made quite a lot of pictures we sat down for a break and eat something.

Arch of Constantine

One of the last imperial monuments built in Rome in 315 AD just before the Emperor Constantine moved the Capital of the Empire to Byzantium. The purpose of building this arch was to celebrate the Battle of the Ponte Milvio in 312. At the Vatican’s Museum there are paintings depicting it.

Arch of Titus

It is historically a very important arch, the purposes of its construction in 81 AD was to commemorate the sack of Jerusalem by Titus’ father and brother 13 years earlier.

Roman Forum

The Roman Forum was the centre of the Civic and Economic life in Rome and exploring it gives to one the idea about the early Republic.

To appreciate the layout and whole complex it is better to stand at the Capitoline Hill from where one can have a better view of the whole place and make out more of the substantial ruins and of course de Via Sacra.

We went three times to this area and I am sure that we haven’t seen the whole site.

In my opinion this area is one of the best areas in Rome, especially if one wants to understand a little more about political and religion issues. It can be a great lesson of history.

Trajan’s Forum and Market

The ruins of this place date from 107 AD. The market was situated right behind the Forum and it was the ancient Roman equivalent of the modern shopping centre .

Next to it it’s possible to see some ruins of the Forum of August and the Forum of Caesar.

Other exquisite piece of art is the Trajan’s Column, which scenes of the Dacian campaigns are minutely detailed.

Santa Maria in Aracoli

This church, which offers a wonderful view of the Piazza Venezia and the Pantheon, stands on the site of the Temple of Juno and dates back to the 6^th century. There are quite a great number of frescos and a beautiful marble staircase. Its interior is austere and it has an exquisite ornate guided ceiling.

Next to the church stand the Capitoline Museum of classical arts. This is a very nice place to visit, especially in the evening. It offers a great view of the city.

Piazza Venezia

This could be a very nice place from where one could have a nice view of the city and have a little rest (don’t try to sit on the staircase). But the Piazza Venezia doesn’t offer much. The traffic around it is intense which makes people confused and stressed.

The Vittorio Emanuele Monument is rather out of proportion with anything around it. It was built to honour the first King of the united Italy. Here is also the house of the eternal Flame, Italy’s Memorial of the Unknown Soldier.

In front of the Monument stands the Palazzo Venezia, one of the first Renaissance buildings in Rome, now an Art Gallery.

Gesu

This is Rome’s first Jesuit Church. It was built between 1568 and 1584. The order of the Jesuits was founded by a soldier, Ignatius Loyola, who became a Christian after he was wounded in battle in 1537. It has a beautiful illusionistic decoration on the nave ceiling and a fantastic baroque work by Legros, which depicts the Triumph of the name of Jesus, a clear message for the Catholics who will be in heaven the Protestants and heretics are sent to the fires of hell. The visit is especially worth for its ceiling. On the day we visited the church there was an American choir practising for their presentation at the Saint Peter the following day.

Area Sacra Argentina

At this square there is quite a lot of interesting things and for those who like going to the theatre this is the right place and of course there are some ruins of olds temples which must be seen.

Pantheon

This extraordinary building is a fusion of art and engineering and it was called the Temple of all gods. The present structure was built and possibly designed by Hadrian in 118 AD.

The Temple has a Greek façade and a vast hemispherical dome which has been the inspiration for many architects and designers.

Since the 7^th century it is a catholic church and also the place where the monarchs are buried. Those, who are interested in the book ‘Angels and Demons’ by Dan Brown must pay attention to this place, especially at the Tomb of Raphael, where there is something to be seen.

This place is always full of tourists and is quite difficult to make pictures or move around, but it is really a great construction and cannot be missed. There are a great number of bars at this square and in the afternoon is the best time to seat down and have a cappuccino watching life passing by.

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva

This Gothic church has a beautiful interior and a fantastic blue ceiling. There are also some good sculptures and paintings from the 13^th century and a sculpture by Michelangelo of Christ bearing the Cross .

Outside of the church there is Bernini’s spectacular sculpture of an elephant

holding an obelisk on its back.

Sant’Ignazio di Loyola

This church has a beautiful illusionistic ceiling, which extols the success of Jesuits around the world.

La Maddalena

The church was built at the end of the Baroque. Its façade in Rococo is extremely beautiful, especially in the afternoon when the sun is shining at its facade. There are quite a lot of things to be seen inside, but in my opinion the outside is further more interesting.

San Luigi dei francesi

There are three great paintings by Caravaggio, which must be seen and please take o time to study them. In my opinion the most interesting is the theatrically calling of Saint Matthew, which is considered one of his masterpieces.

Piazza Navona

At this beautiful and crowded square there’s one of the most extravagant masterpieces designed by Bernini: Fontana dei quattro Fiumi. Its main figures represent the rivers Ganges, Nile, Danube and Plate, surrounded by geographically appropriate flora and fauna. At the southern end is the Fontana del Moro also designed by Bernini. It is less spectacular than the first one and the main figure looks like a sea god rather than a Moro. This square is also mentioned in the book Angels and Demons by Dan Brown.

As we were a bit tired of seeing churches we just took a walk through the Piazza and ended having a cappuccino at the Campo de Fiori.

We walked around this area, in which there are a great number of interesting buildings such as the Palazzo Farnese (French Embassy), the Palazzo Pamphili, the church of Sant’Agnese, the church of Sant’Andrea della Valle and the Ghetto.

We had our dinner at the Campo di Fiori. At this square there is an interesting day-market and the restaurants around it are very nice and the prices are reasonable.

This area in the evening is a perfect place to walk around and see the night life. I would suggest going to the Palazzo Farnese to have a look from the street at the masterpiece painted on the ceiling.

We ended up going to the Colosseo through the Via dei Foro Imperiali. We caught a tram at the Colosseo.

Monday21^st March

San Giovanni in Laterano

This marvellous Cathedral was founded by the Emperor Constantine in the early 4^th century. It is the most important church in Rome after Saint Peter. The Cathedral of Rome was the residence of Popes before the Papacy moved to Avignon in 1309. There are quite lot of similarities between this church and the Saint Peter, for example its façade and the existence of the Holy Door. The Papal Altar is extremely beautiful as well the Apse.

Nearby there is a very interesting building where one can see or walk on one’s knees the Holy Staircase, which was brought to Rome from Jerusalem by the mother of Constantine. It is said to be the steps on which Christ walked down after being condemned by Pilate. There were quite a great number of faithful people who were climbing the staircase. It is a religious place, tourists should avoid going there.

Near the Baptistry there is the oldest and tallest Obelisk in Rome which is the marker of the church in Rome.

Santa Sabina

There is a beautiful 5^th century work in mosaic above the main door in this old basilica.

San Clemente

At this church one can see how Christianity overcame the Paganism by converting old temples into a Christian church. The excavations begun in 1857 and a great number of important buildings were found underneath of the actual building.

Some of the ancient Roman buildings discovered are not open to the public, which is a pity, but even though a visit to this spot is recommendable due to a great number of details and history existent here.

We left the church for the Parco Oppio for a break. The Parco Oppio is on the way to the Colosseo.

We walked around the Colesseo and went to the Circo Massimo. The ruins of the Circo are very few, but enough to tell us how big it was.

We carried on until the Piazza della Bocca della Verita. At this square there is in the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin a very interesting slab marble resembling a human face considered to be the first lie detector. Of course there are always some tourists making pictures and trying to prove whether is true or not about what is said to happen to liars when they put their hands into its mouth. It was said that it was used by husbands to test the faithfulness of their wives. There is also a small fountain inside the church in which one can throw a coin to assure one’s luck.

There is more to be seen at this square, such as the two temples near the Fontana dei Tritoni which date from the 2^nd century BC. They are the very best preserved temples of Rome’s Republic.

We crossed the bridge and went to have lunch at the Isola Tiberina.

After lunch we went to have a look at the area where there was a famous theatre called Teatro de Marcello, which was begun by Caesar and it could hold 15,000 spectators. This is a very interesting walk especially to see where the Jewish community started in Rome and of course enjoy the small bars and cantinas in those narrow streets.

Then we walked through the Piazza Navona and at this time we were able to stop and take a close look at the beautiful work by Bernini; the world famous Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. The square is always busy, the only time in which we saw it empty was late in the evening, but during the day it is crowded and with a lovely atmosphere.

After we got some more energy and a lovely ice-cream we went to the Piazza del Popolo, but we went through the Pantheon and Piazza Colonna where the Prime Minister lives and we headed to the Fontana di Trevi.

Fontana di Trevi

This is the most crowded place I have seen in Rome. This is Rome’s most famous Fontana and everybody knows about it. To make a picture or throw a coin at it is very difficult. There are hundreds of people sitting around it at any time of the day. It is definitively interesting, beautiful and it must be seen. One can not visit Rome without coming to this place.

The Fontana was built in 1762 by Nicola Salvi and it is the largest fountain in Rome. The central figure is Neptune surrounded by two Tritons. One Triton is trying to master an unruly sea-horse and another is leading a quieter beast. It symbolises the two contrasting moods of the sea.

We headed for the Piazza di Spagna.

Piazza di Spagna

This a very elegant area where one can shop or just look through the shop windows. To get to the Piazza di Spagna we went on through the Via del Corso where there are beautiful shops and we branched of to the right at via Condotti also full of lavish shops and then we got to the Spanish steps. This is a place for an afternoon when one is tired. The stairway is always full of people just enjoying the fantastic view of the city and the life passing by. At the top of the steps there is a simple but very cosy church of Trinita Del Monti from the 16^th century. The view from the church is something that can not be missed.

There is also a small fountain of a little boat designed by Bernini which is quite beautiful but rather remarkable.

We walked down and went on until the Piazza del Popolo which is a good place for a rest and be away from the tourists.

At this square there are three interesting churches. At the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, there is an exquisite work by Raphael at the Chigi Chapel which is mentioned in the book Angels and Demons by Dan Brown; an audacious Renaissance fusion of the sacred and profane. At the Cerasi Chapel there are two fantastic paintings by Caravaggio.

The other two which seem to have the same design are by Rainaldi and are very interesting seen either from inside and outside.

After a long rest we went up to the Piazza Napoleone from where one can have a marvellous view of the whole city and enjoy this huge green area in which there are museums, galleries, fountains and quiet places to rest.

After a break we went down through the Spanish Steps and walked all the way back enjoying the view and atmosphere until the Piazza Argentina where we had our dinner in a very nice Chinese restaurant beside the Teatro Argentina.

We ended our day walking to the Isola Tiberina where we caught our bus and went home.

Tuesday22nd March

Vatican City

After having seen quite a lot of things in Rome it was time we went to see the capital of the Catholicism.

We stayed very near to the Vatican so that we could have walked to there but to make it quickly we went by metro.

We went first to the Saint Peter Square to admire the beauty of the Cathedral and its decorations. Everything was exactly as I had seen on TV or in books, but even better. The Square, which was laid out by Bernini after the construction of the Cathedral, has a great number of statues and very interesting details such as the decoration on the floor and the obelisk at its centre. Take your time to study this place and don’t forget the two symmetrical fountains.

In my opinion it is better to go to the Saint Peter Cathedral after having visited at least the other four Basilicas in Rome, because it gives more freedom to appreciate the very small details and all the works of arts both outside and inside, without being crazy and running around with a camera making pictures of everything.

To enter the church was very easy. There was a small queue and it went very quickly. The entrance is free of charge and one is allowed to make pictures of every single detail. To go up the Dome or enter in the Historical Artistic Museum inside the church one must pay.

We spent quite a long time inside the church and it is really one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen. One must pay attention to its floor, the Pieta by Michelangelo that stands near the Holy Door and to the Monument Pope Alexander VII by Bernini.

As the queue to the Dome was huge we went to the Vatican’s Museum instead.

Vatican Museums

To enter the Museum was also easy. There was no queue. The entrance of the Museum is not at the square. If you are facing the church of Saint Peter, just go to right side through the colonnades. Once out of the square you simply to follow the walls until getting to the museum.

There is so much to see in the Vatican Museum whose collection includes classical statues, Egyptian artefacts, maps, tapestry, paintings and the lavish Sistine Chapel.

When we left the Museum we walked to the Saint Peter Square for one more look at the Cathedral and to make some last pictures.

We left for the Castel Sant’Angelo walking down the square and we had a look at the Castle and went to the Piazza Cavour. We went back to the Castle and we stayed there for a while appreciating the sunset at the Ponte Sant’ Angelo. The bridge is decorated with beautiful statues by Bernini and it is most beautiful bridge in Rome. The place is mentioned in the book “Angels and Demons” by Dan Brown.

We took a walk through the Via Giulia and went to Trastevere.

Trastevere

This is one of the oldest areas in Rome and the inhabitants consider themselves to be the true Romans. At this area we found the most reasonable prices in the restaurants and bars and we saw few tourists. There are beautiful and narrow streets with lovely cosy houses. As it was not yet time for dinner we went walking around to see what we could find at this completely different area. Of course there are remarkable churches and buildings to be seen. I recommend Santa Maria in Trastevere, San Francesco a Ripa in which there is an exquisite late work by Bernini the Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica Albertoni, San Pietro in Montorio and the Tempietto, a masterpiece of the Renaissance architecture designed by Bramante.

We went for dinner in a very nice Italian restaurant. After dinner we walked around a bit until we went home.

Wednesday23^rd March

We left home for the Termini Station and after having bought the ticket to Florence we went to the Piazza de Santa Maria Maggiore.

Santa Maria Maggiore

This grandiose church was built in 15^th century and it has beautiful works in mosaic and a magnificent marble work on the floor. It has a Renaissance façade and a medieval Romanesque bell tower, which forms an interesting composition. This is the only Roman Basilica that in spite of several additional decorations and restorations has retained its original shape. The gold ceiling is also something which can not be missed.

After having visited this church we went back to the Termini and from there to the Piazza della Republica. We caught the Via Nazionale, Via Torino and via Torino and Via XX Settembre. At Via XX Settembre we stopped at the church Santa Maria della Vittoria to see the one of the finest sculpture by Bernini: Ecstasy of Santa Teresa. The physical nature of S. Teresa’s ecstasy is apparent as she appears with her mouth half open and her eyes closed, stuck by the arrow of a smiling angel. It has a strong sexual appeal for a religious sculpture. The sculpture is also mentioned in book “Angels and Demons” by Dan Brown, but the church in the book is located at the Piazza Barberini which is not true. This church is closed during lunch time.

We went down in direction to the Piazza Del Quirinale and on the way we stopped at the church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane designed by Borromini and the church of Sant’Andrea al Quirinale designed by Bernini.

We went to Via Veneto, one of the most famous roads in Rome and passed by the church Santa Maria della Concezione. The church was open but the crypt which was decked with the dismembered skeletons was closed.

Fontana del Tritone

This sensual sculpture by Bernini stands at the square which has the same name. The Fountain is one of most beautiful and exotic works by the sculptor but the traffic around it is quite intense which doesn’t give the tourists a chance to see it properly. There are some details which must be seen, such as the three bees. Nearby stands the Palazzo Barberini where there are works by Borromini, Bernini and others.

We went walking to Via del Corso, Fontana di Trevi, Piazza del Parlamento, Piazza Colonna, Pantheon, Piazza Navona, the Jewish area and Isola Tiberina. We crossed the bridge to get to Trastevere. We walked through this beautiful area again, but now at day time and went up to the Piazza de S.Panerazio, from where we could have a beautiful view of whole city. This is one thing that must be done, because the walk until this square is fantastic and the view is something very special.

We went down through the Via Garibaldi and passed by the Piazza de S. Pietro in Montorio just to have a close look at Bramante’s circular Tempietto.

We had a drink at a bar near the Piazza Santa Maria di Trastevere and after that we had our dinner somewhere nearby.

After dinner we went by tram to the Piazza Argentina and from there we went to the Piazza Navona for a little walk around that area.

Afterwards we went home.

Thursday24^th march

This was our last day in Rome, and we decided to see everything again.

We started our day at Villa Borghese, a very nice park near our place. At this park there are quite a great number of museums and galleries and it is also good for a walk or a picnic. There is also a replica of the Shakespeare Globe Theatre in the park.

After a long walk in the park we went to the Saint Peter Square in order to say goodbye to the Pope and take some more pictures.

We caught a tram to the Colosseo and there we did a small tour around this area and at the Roman Forum.

We went on to the Piazza Venezia, Fontana di Trevi, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza del Popolo and again the Park Borghese. We crossed the park and caught our tram to our place in front of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna. In order to stay longer in town we went home to leave our bags.

We went back to the Piazza del Popolo by tram and from there we just walked without any plan to Trastevere, where we had our dinner.

After dinner we went to the Campo de Fiori and we ended up having some drinks at a nice bar just behind the Piazza Navona.

Friday25^th March

We left home around 9am for Florence. The journey took three hours by train.

FLORENCA

Friday25^th March

Florence is three-an-half hour by train way from Rome and the journey is amazing. The train goes through mountains and valleys offering to the tourists a view of Italy’s splendid landscape.

We arrived in Florence at 1:00pm and we went straight to our place which was at Borgo de San Frediano, three –minute walking from the Ponte Vecchio.

We met our landlady and after having just thrown our staff inside the room we went out to see what exactly was waiting for us.

Florence is a great monument of the Renaissance. The city that gave birth to the Renaissance is full of artist and cultural reawakening of 15^th century. In every corner there is something to be seen and appreciate. Everything here seems to have been built with an eye to beauty. The city drove the Renaissance, leaving an unrivalled legacy of paintings, sculptures and architectural marvels. It has a high style with marvellous shops, bars and restaurants.

I must say it is a quite expensive city, but with no disappointments. Its monuments are worth seeing. Florence has something magical, an inexplicable energy making people fall in love with its treasures. The notion of taking a cultural tour of Florence is tautology; there is so much history on show that any visit is by definition cultural. The city is the cultural centre of Italy.

Drinking a glass of wine or enjoying an ice-cream overlooking the Ponte Vecchio may sound silly, but it is an amazing experience.

I had seen so many pictures of the city and I knew about all the buildings by reading and studying but at the moment that I saw the Dome of the Duomo I was amazed by the view and I wanted to reach it as soon as possible. We walked through the Ponte the Ponte Vecchio until the Piazza della Signoria where I saw hundreds of people walking around like ants. The only time I could see the whole square empty was very early in the morning and later in the evening and the bars around the square seem like a beehive, is almost impossible to buy something.

Where to stay

I suggest getting a place in the same area as the Palazzo Pitti is. It is a quiet area and there are many good restaurants with reasonable prices.

Shopping

Florence is best known for its leather and the prices are reasonable especially at the market. Whether one wants to find a good design it is also possible, all the big names are in Florence and the shop-windows are amazingly beautiful.

Friday 25^th March

Ponte Vecchio

This is the oldest surviving bridge in the city. It was built in 1345 designed by one of the Giotto’s pupil. The antique shops and the specialized jewellery shops on this bridge are well-known and it attracts a great number of tourists.

We went to Piazza della Signoria going under the Corridoio Vasariano which connects the Palazzo Pitti with the Palazzo Vecchio. The Corridoio was designed by Giorgio Vasari in 1565 to allow the Medici family to move about their residence without having to mix with the public. Its architecture is remarkable.

Galleria Uffizi

The Uffizi is Italy’s greatest art gallery and it was built in the 16^th to house offices (Uffizi). There are so much to be seen in this gallery such as Gothic Art, Early Renaissance, High Renaissance and Mannerism and Later Paintings. In order to get in the booking must be done before going to Florence. The queue is always huge and the tickets are limited.

Piazza della Signoria

Here is the heart of Florence’s political and social life. Of course the Duomo is the city’s greatest monument, but here we have an open air museum.

At this square stands a copy of the Michelangelo’s masterpiece the huge naked David. The original is at the Galleria dell’Accademia. The Fontana di Nettuno is other fantastic sculpture and there are more to be seen at the building next to the Palazzo Vecchio. This square must be visited in the different time and in the afternoon is the best time to take some pictures.

Santa Croce

Those who watched the film Room with a View will be familiar with this church. The building begun in 13^th century and in this Gothic church contains tombs and monuments of famous Florentines such as, Michelangelo, Galileo, Leonardo Bruni and Machiaveli. The Capella Pazzi is a masterpiece of the Renaissance designed by Brunelleschi. Right of the high Altar there are frescoes by Giotto.

We went to this church three or four times and at one evening we watched a concert whose main reason was to raise money for an orphanage in Brazil.

Duomo

This is Florence’s most famous symbol and the masterpiece of the Renaissance. The Cathedral is the Europe’s forth largest church and it has the biggest Dome in the World. It was designed by Brunelleschi in 1463 and it is has a countless number of works of art. The walls are covered with marble in a green and white colour. The main entrance door has a fantastic work by Pisano depicting the Creation of Man. The frescoes at the ceiling of the Dome are by Vasari. The chapels at the East End are crowned by smaller copies of the dome. The inlaid pavement floor is something that must be appreciated due to its colourful and intricately inlaid designed by Francesco Sangallo.

After having seen the Cathedral go to see and appreciate how the city celebrated its deliverance from the plague by setting splendid new doors at the main entrance of Bapstitry. The ceiling of the Baptistry has beautiful and colourful 13^th century mosaics.

San Lorenzo

It was the church the Parish church of the Medici Family. Brunelleschi was commissioned to rebuild it in a classical style of the Renaissance. Almost a century later Michelangelo work on its façade and begun work on the Medici Tombs in the Sagrestia. He also designed the Biblioteca mediceo-Laurenziana to house the Family’s collection of manuscript, in which there is a marvellous Mannerist staircase. The Family Mausoleum is worthy seeing.

Mercato Centrale

It is a two-storey building right behind of the church of San Lorenzo. The market offers all kind of foods and drinks. It must be visited.

After having wandered through the whole market we went home just to dress up properly. We took a walk now via Santa Maria Novella and we ended up having our dinner in a restaurant right behind the Duomo.

After dinner on the way to a Concert at the church of Santa Croce we passed by the Piazza San Marco and Piazza della Annunziata .

Saturday26^th March

Santa Maria Novella

The Church of Santa M. Novella was built in the 13^th century and in 1456-70 Leon Battista Alberti incorporated its façade into the Classical proportions of the Renaissance. Seen from outside there are some similarities between this church and the church of Santa Croce. Its interior is something that must be seen step by step. The way how the piers of the nave were spaced together create a fantastic perspective, giving the illusion of a long church.. Something that can not be missed is a fresco dating from 1428 and it is renowned as a masterpiece of perspective and portraiture. At the Capella Tornabuoni there is the Ghirlandaio’s famous fresco Cycle, The life of S. John the Baptist.

We went again to the Mercato Centrale, San Lorenzo, and Piazza della Republica and ended up having a coffee at the Piazza della Annunziata.

Piazza Annunziata

At this square there are a great number of interesting buildings. Just to mention some of them let talk about the Spedale degli Innocenti by Brunelleschi, whose purpose was to house orphans. This is the first Orphanage in Europe. The decoration by Andrea della Robbia which shows babies wrapped in swaddling bands, is very sweet. At the left end of the portico one can see the rota , a rotating stone on which anonymous mothers could place their unwanted children.

At the church Santissima Annunziata there is a famous panel the Birth of the Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto.

We went again to the Duomo, Piazza della Republica and Piazza della Signoria, we ended up at the Mercato Nuovo, where I went just to touch the Il Porcellino. It is said that it brings luck to those who touch its nose.

We went to the other side of the river through the Piazza della Signoria crossing the Galleria Uffizi and the Ponte Vecchio. We carried on until the Palazzo Pitti, but before we stopped at the Santa Felicita in which there are twoFrescoes by Pontorno the Annunciation and the Deposition in a strange composition and colouring. It is said to be one of the greatest masterpiece of the Mannerism.

As it was quite late we decided to visit the Museum on the next day. We ended our day at the San Miniato al Monte.

San Miniato al Monte

It is said to be one of most beautiful Romanesque Church in Italy.Its construction begun in 1018 over the Shrine of San Miniato. The façade begun around 1090 and it has the geometric marble patterning typical of Pisan-Romanesque architecture. The floor of the nave is covered with panels of animals and signs of the zodiac. These mosaics date back to 1207.This church is indeed very interesting and there are so much details to look at and is interior has a remarkable architecture. In case someone wants to explore a bit more, there is an interesting cemetery around it and also ruins of the city’s wall.

Piazzale Michelangelo

None of the Florence’s viewpoint offers such a magnificent panorama of the city as the Piazzale Michelangelo. It is a perfect spot for a coffee or a glass of wine watching the sun setting over the Tuscan Hills and appreciating the view of whole city.

We went down home for a break before going out for dinner.

After dinner we went to a Mass at the Duomo.

We went to a bar near the church Santa Croce and afterwards to a night club.

Sunday27^th March

I woke up earlier and I wanted to go to the Duomo, but as it was raining I decided not to go out, I went back to bed instead. I had planned to go to the Mass at the Duomo at very early morning, just because I had been told that the Mass would be very special.

We woke up around nine o’clock and after breakfast we went to a church near our place. The service was almost ending, but I had time to enjoy a bit the choir.

Ognissanti

The name of the church means All Saints and this was the Parish church of the Vespucci. This is also the burial place of Botticelli. There are beautiful frescoes by Ghirlandaio such as Madonna della Misericordia (1472) and The last Supper.

Capella Brancacci

This Chapel belongs to the Church of Santa maria del carmine and contains frescoes which depict the Life of Saint Peter. The way how the painter (Masaccio) depicted it placed him in the vanguard of the Renaissance painting. His narrative drama and tragic realism is used a tThese frescoes have a dramatic narrative and the perspective

Santo Spirito

The foundation of this church dates from 1250 and it was designed by Brunelleschi, but not completed until the late 15^th century. The Colonnaded aisle in its interior gives the idea that the church has a long nave and

Palazzo Pitti

This Palazzo which was the main residence of the Medici Family is also attributed to Brunelleschi. The building today houses a countless treasures from the Medici Collection. Its garden is also Worthing visiting.

After having visited the Museum we went to a restaurant near the Piazza della Signoria for our Easter lunch.

After lunch we went for a walk around the city-centre and we ended up having a lovely ice-cream at the river side, near the Ponte Vecchio.

In the evening we went out for dinner and later to a bar.

Pisa 28^th March

This small cosy city stays just few kilometres far from Florence and has a great number of old buildings. Although, many tourists go to Pisa just to see the Leaning Tower.

Alongside the river Arno there are a great number of colourful buildings adding to the city a feeling of happiness. At the Piazza Cavalieri there are some buildings from the 15^th century with an exuberant decorations and architecture.

Campo dei Miracoli

At this place stand the most important buildings of Pisa and the main attraction.

The Leaning Tower that apparently flouting of the law of gravity has attracted many visitors over the centuries. The building which was built to complement the Duomo as campanile has an interesting architecture in which Islamic influences are seen. The tower now is opened to the public and it offers a great view of city.

Duomo and Baptistry

The Duomo is one of finest Pisan-Romanesque buildings in Tuscany. It has an intricate blind arcades and a wonderful four-tiered façade. Its door decorated with relief cast by Bonanno Pisano dating back 1180. The Baptistry is also a wonderful building with an exuberant Gothic decoration.

After having visited Pisa, we went back to Florence and we spent the rest of the day walking around the city.

Sienna 29^th March

One of Europe’s greatest medieval city with narrows streets and a fan-shaped square, Piazza del Campo. The Sieneses say that is the shape of the protecting cloak of the Virgin, who with Santa Catarina di Sienna is the city’s patron saint. The hilly position of city offer delightful hidden corners and countless sudden views. There a great number of buildings which were built in 13^th and 14^th century. At the Del Campo one can see the division of the pavement surface in nine segments, meaning the Council of Nine Good Men who ruled the city in the 13^th and 14^th century. Walking around city is very easy and a pleasant thing to do.

The Duomo amongst so many wonderful buildings in Sienna is one of Italy’s greatest Cathedrals, a spectacular mixture of Sculpture, paintings and Pisan-influenced Romanesque-Gothic architecture. The vast façade is a festival of green, pink and white marble and totally decorated with sculptures. The church would have become the largest church in the Christendom if some events such as the Plaque of 1348 had not happened. Its interior is decorated with sculptures by Michelangelo, Donatello and Nicola Pisano and its floor has a fine marble inlaid pavement with scenes of New Testament; a highlight to The Massacre of the Innocents, which is amazing. The ceiling is also something very special, it is in blue colour with golden stars, reminding of the sky.

There are a lot to be seen there, I recommend at least two other churches: S. Domenico and S. Francesco, where one can have a wonderful view of the city from. For those with more time I suggest spending few hours at the Piazza del Campo, it is the most beautiful square I have ever visited in Italy.

Bologna 30^th, 31^st March

The city is famous for its Universities and its Cuisine. The old buildings are of a soft orange-red colour and have very handsome marble or brick porticoes which shelter shoppers and pedestrians from inclement weather. The old centre is small, cosy and pleasant.

San Giacomo Maggiore

This Romanesque-Gothic church begun in 1267 has beautiful works of art, especially sculptures by Jacopo Della Quercia.

Tori degli Asinelli e Garisenda

The famous 12^th century Leaning Towers are among the survivors of the original 200 that once formed the skyline of Bologna.

Abbazia di Santo Stefano

Santo Stefano is a curious collection of four medieval churches under one roof dating from the 11^th century. There are many interesting things here to be seen and the highlight is the tomb of S. Petronio, a marvellous replica of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem. At this church we also met a Ghanaian father from Sarpong, a place near Kumasi.

San Petronio

This medieval church was begun in 13^th century and intended to be larger than San Peter, but due to a diversion of funds its size was scaled down. There are some interesting things to see here and one must have a careful look at the Meridian Line traced by Gian Domenico Cassini 1655 and at the stained-glass window dating from 1464. At this square there was a threat of a bomb and the whole place was full of police men. The artefact was inside of a small bag near the steps of the cathedral. Fortunately, the artefact was destroyed without hurting anyone.

San Domenico

It is one of the most important Dominican Churches in Italy. It was begun in 1221 to house the body of S. Domenico, whose tomb is a marvellous work of art with sculptures of Michelangelo and Nicola Pisano.

Ferrara 31^st March

This peaceful and provincial city is half-an-hour journey from Bologna with a colourful history and splendid treasures. The city is easy to walk around and as this town has not got hills, cycling may be a good choice and there are a lot bicycles in town, also for rent.

The city was ruled by the d’Este Family from the 13^th century until 1598, when they were forced to move out.

Ferrara’s skyline is dominated by the Castello Estense, with moats, drawbridges and towers. Just behind the Castello is the Duomo with has note-worthy paintings. In the adjoining Museum there are beautiful paintings and sculptures by Jacopo della Quercia

There are many medieval streets south of the cathedral, specially at Via delle Volte with a great number of elegant arches.

There are a great number of Palaces among which with a unique façade the Palazzo dei Diamanti. The Palazzo was built in 15 century and today it is an Art Gallery. At this time a major exhibition of the famous English Portraitist Joshua Reynolds was being held there. This exhibition will be in May at the Tate Britain in London.

Bologna 31^st March

After having visited Ferrara we went back to Bologna and on the next day we left for Milan by train.

Milan 1^st and 2^nd April

We were visiting the city for the fourth time, and then we didn’t have any plans. We walked around the Duomo and did some shopping.

We flew back to Accra on the 2^nd of April; at the same evening of the death of the Pope John Paul II.